Time was running out! With just over one week left in Asturias, we looked at the map and realized we hadn’t explored the Principality’s western half at all. Time for a road trip.
We headed out from Oviedo, through Grado, Pola de Allende, Grandas de Salime, Villanueva de Oscos and into Taramundi. It was an unforgettable trip, through forests, over hydroelectric dams, across mountain passes and into the least inhabited areas of Asturias. For long stretches, we drove without seeing another soul, save the random hunter. The roads were empty and well-maintained, which made driving an absolute pleasure.
The only extended stop we made was for lunch in Taramundi. Unfortunately, in the Hotel Taramundi we suffered through the worst meal we had during our three months in Asturias. I choked my way through a steak so raw, it must have been cooked over match light. I swear it mooed when I cut into it. I’m all for rare and bloody, but this was ridiculous. The other plate was awful too, runny eggs and the nastiest chorizo to ever bear the name.
Overall, we thought Taramundi was cute, but it’s a town clearly designed to ensnare tourists, lacking any sense of authenticity. It’s famed for its knives (navajas), so we bought one and spent the rest of the day slicing things. We were done with Taramundi after about ten minutes, and drove to the nearby village of Os Teixos. Here, they’ve shut down thoroughfare, so you have to park outside the town and walk in. Also, you have to pay an entrance fee! Os Teixos has converted itself into an open air museum dedicated to water mills.
We loved our day driving through Western Asturias, and were particularly impressed by both the hydroelectric dam near Grandas de Salime and the Puerto del Palo, which offered incredible views from 1146 meters above sea level.